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1. |
Install Rudder and
Vertical Stab - Measure from the bottom of the rudder
at the hinge point up approx 2 Ό (the plan is to get
the control horns on the same plane as the rudder
servo output arm) and install control horns using ½x
2/56 machine screws, lock washers, and nuts. Once you
line them up you can just push the screws through with
your fingers or drill the holes with a 3/32 bit. Be
careful not to over tighten the bolts and crush the
rudder.
Use the two 1/4x20 nylon bolts. Put them up through
the bottom of the fuse until about 1/4 comes through
the wing. Position the protruding screws into the
flutes in the vertical Stab. Holding the stab firmly
to the wing, screw the nylon bolts into the stab until
the stab is firmly attached to the wing. Again, be
careful not to over tighten. You will feel it when the
nylon bolt is snug. |
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2. |
Engine
Installation Position the engine on the mount as far
back as possible. If the opening is not large enough
for the engine to fit, you can easily trim it with a
hobby knife or a file or sandpaper. Be careful not to
cut away too much; a snug fit is what you want. Mark
the mounting holes and drill with a 3/32 bit. Put a
drop of epoxy in each mounting hole and mount the
engine with the supplied 4/40x1 cap screws and lock
washers (they will self tap into the mount just fine).
The engine mounting bolts are long enough to go
through the bottom of the mount. If you are not
comfortable with letting the bolts self tap or if you
over tightened one and stripped it, just put nuts on
them. Attach the supplied throttle linkage to the arm
on the carb.
Caution - The print on the plane is
NOT fuel proof. It is best to route the exhaust
through the bottom or at least up and out of the way
of the wing.
If you like you can spray the printing with clear fuel
proof paint. |
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Your PBF
should now look like the photos below
(Click On Photos To Enlarge) |
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3. |
Install Elevon
Control Horns Measure 2 ½ from center and install
the control horns so they will pull from directly over
the hinge line (again being careful not to over
tighten them). Install the supplied pushrods on the
control horns (Its probably best to start with them
in the top hole). |
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4. |
Radio and servo
installation If you are not familiar with the elevon
function on your transmitter you will likely find this
to be the most time consuming part of the
construction. I have found it is easier for me if I
put servos on the wing in their proper position and
get everything going the right way with the servo arm
in the correct position before I try to mount
anything. After you have done this things will go
together pretty fast. |
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a. |
Hook up the
throttle linkage to the servo arm. Hold it in
place on the wing and find the right place to
attach it so you can get full throttle travel
mark it.
Lift the servo and put a piece of double sided
tape (supplied) on it and stick it in place. |
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b. |
Next you can
do the same with the elevons. I usually do this
with the radio on so I am sure the servos are
centered. You can lay a straight edge on top of
the wing and elevon to be sure it is in the
neutral position before taping down the servo.
Also be sure all the trims are neutral. |
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c. |
I save the
rudder servo for last because it can be moved
easily to help get the center of gravity correct.
Now is a good time to check and see what you are
going to need to do to get the center of gravity
between 5 6 inches from the leading edge. Once
you are satisfied, go ahead and tape the rudder
servo in place. |
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d. |
Now you can
install the pull-pull rudder linkage. Here is how
I like to do this. First cut the cable in half and
attach to the rudder control horns (I find if you
crimp half of the connector, them rotate it 90
degrees, them crimp the other half, you will never
have them come loose). Next, with the radio on and
the rudder servo centered, connect the servo arm
on both sides and pull the cables until you have
the rudder straight and the slack out of both
cables. Crimp the two connectors and that part is
done. |
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e. |
Now is a good
time to check everything and be sure it goes the
right way and can be centered with the trim on
your transmitter with some adjustment remaining in
both directions for each function. |
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f. |
If everything
looks good you can go ahead and fasten the servos
down with the nylon tie straps. The best way to
put the necessary holes in the wing to do this is
with a small blade screwdriver. It is easy to just
push it through to Coroplast between the ribs.
(The tape is pretty strong and would probably hold
by itself. The tie straps are just extra
insurance). |
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5. |
Fuel tank
installation: This one is real easy. Just put the
double sided tape on the bottom. Find the best
location behind the engine (I put it off to the left
to help offset the muffler weight) and stick it down.
Secure it with the last long tie strap by putting one
hole in the wing next to the left side of the tank and
using the other hole that is pre-drilled in the
fuselage. Install the fuel tubing for the carburetor
and the pressure line and youre done. |
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6. |
Battery and
receiver installation: Mark where the battery and
receiver are going to be to balance the plane (you can
move it left or right to obtain lateral balance) and
lay down a long tie strap front to back on the wing in
the center of the battery location (This will be used
to attach the receiver). Tape the battery in place and
secure it with a long tie strap going from left to
right, going under the wing and the fuselage. Install
the foam around the receiver and use the tie strap you
put down under the battery to secure it. This is a
good time to try and tie up as many loose wires as you
can. I usually braid the elevon and rudder servo leads
and put the excess from the throttle servo wire and
the battery wire under the foam between the battery
and the receiver. Charge the batteries and GO FLY! |
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Upon completion, the bottom and top of your PBF-ARF
should look like the photos below |
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(Click On Photos To Enlarge) |
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